BUSCALAN VILLAGE, Tinglayan, Kalinga | Traversing Mountains To Meet The Last Regal - Wang-Od

BUSCALAN VILLAGE | Tinglayan, Kalinga

Buscalan Village, one of the 20 barangays in the municipality of Tinglayan in the district of Kalinga, is the humble quarter of the oldest and last long-established tattoo maker, Wang-Od. It is nestled peacefully in between supersized mountains and grass-grown valleys of Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR), that surely completes an extraordinary mountaineering venture. The main challenge in getting to this sequestered paradise is its inaccessibility to any mode of transportation. From the foot of the mountain, just where the farthest point reachable by vehicle, one has to trek for almost two hours.

The considerable steepness of the slopes, provide a rugged ground for a hiker, eventually unfolds into wooded-meadow terraces; the scenery is more than rewarding. Wild sunflowers and flowers of different sorts greet guests and are all carefully paneled along the trail, whilst budding and herbaceous plants overlay the entire field like a warm blanket. Narrow aisles, which are aligned on uphill, suggest enough precaution in going up and going down the mountains. A trip to the village is more than just a checklist that suffices a traveler’s bucket list; it’s an arousal of the mind, body and soul -  a trip way too intangible to even put into words. It is like poetry from the previous era – a discovery of songs and words in the alphabet. Ultimately, it is a time-travel opportunity that zips back culture and delivers appreciation all the way to the present. It is a celebration of life, a liberation from all that is oppressing and a reconciliation to what really matters – love; for humanity and art.

HOW TO GET TO BUSCALAN

Tulgao Palan-ah Falls

From Manila

1. Ride a PUB via Tabuk. Victory Liner on Kamias Road, along EDSA and just across GMA Network in Kamuning offers daily trips bound for Tabuk. Fare is between Php 720-820, depending on the type of bus available during the scheduled trip. Travel time is about 10 1/2 hours. Bus has two trips daily that leaves at 7:30 PM and 8:30 PM.
2. Get off in the town of Guadalupe and ride a jeepney bound for Tinglayan. Travel time is approximately an hour and a half to two.
3. Get off in Tinglayan and ride a jeepney bound for Butbut.
4. From Butbut, you may now start to trek. Depending on how fast or slow you move your bottom, the trekking time is recorded to last for about an hour and a half to two.

POINTERS | Trekking, Transportation And Porter

• There are a few locals who would offer a motorbike (habal-habal) ride from the jump-off point up to the farthest valley of the mountain. Fare is Php 100 per head. Availing this offer would cut down your trekking time into an hour.
• The first jeepney in Guadalupe bound for Tinglayan departs at around 6:30-7:00 AM. If you came a little early, you may opt to get off at Victory Terminal in Tabuk where you could rest and have coffee. You may ride a tricycle bound for Guadalupe for Php 20.
• A few men are willing to carry your bags for your comfort; there is no fixed rate. 
• After an hour of trekking, you'd get to pass the famous falls in the area - Palan-ah Waterfalls. You may take a rest or have a quick dip to recharge energy.
• I was able to meet a group of travelers in Tabuk, whom I had joined for this entire trip.

** and as always, GET LOST **

GETTING AROUND | Tour Guide, Accommodation And Other Fee

• Tour guide rate : Php 1000/ 5 pax/ day. Same rate if you are travelling solo.
• Registration fee in Buscalan Village : Php 75/ head.
• Accommodation will be taken cared of by your chosen tour guide. Rate is Php 300/head. This includes: shared toilet and bath, possible shared accommodation with other guests, a pillow and when you get lucky a blanket or a mattress would be provided, unlimited Ifugao Coffee, cooked Ifugao Rice daily, electrical outlets for recharging of your gadgets.
• Pack enough clothing to combat the cold weather in the village. Preferably, these should be lightweight as you will be carrying them in going up and going down the mountains.
• Bring emergency kit and medicine as no pharmacy was sighted.
• Canned goods of any type or bottled water for your entire stay. **optional** The village has potable drinking water and accommodation includes daily supply of almost all edible plants and crops in the area.
• Flashlights can be handy as locals turn off their lights at night.
• You may bring some cookies to be shared to the children. Bringing of CANDIES are no longer encouraged since tooth decay is very prominent. Matchbox to be given to elders.
• Respect and courtesy should be practiced at all times.

EXERIENCE | A Taste of Morning And A Grab Of Sunsets In The Mountains

KAPE IFUGAO | Parang pag-ibig, naglalaban ang pait at tamis.

Sa huli, ang init ang nagbabalanse.

The first morning in the village was gently stimulated by the smell of fresh brewed Ifugao coffee. While almost everyone was still asleep, getting a cup or two was a great idea to start the day, I thought. During that early musing and just in between the sips, wonderful thoughts freely registered. Soon, I watched how my soul was mesmerized by such beauty, as my body began to move towards the terraces. For waking up in a strange place with unfamiliar faces, with nothing but just the clouds as your roof and soaring rock formations serve as your walls, was quite dreamy. All the more, if you are able to witness the rising of the sun behind those mountains and see how the whole place is being illuminated little by little - phenomenal.

LIWANAG SA DILIM | Depende kung paano mo gusto na tingnan o intindihin at ipaliwanag ang isang larawan.

Madalas na iisa ang tinitingnan pero magkaiba ang nakikita at malayo sa kinakanlong ng isipan.

Isang larawan, isang daan at tatlumpu't pitong konsepto.

Mga mumunting mala-kristal na patak ng tubig mula sa magdamag na hamog.

The warmth of sunlight, beaming like crystals and stones, 

reminds all that anyone can be the wealthiest if they just think that they have enough.

The entire day was spent mostly in the balcony, getting inked, seeing people get inked and yes daydreaming. A collective of interesting stories from different people was shared as we let time pass unhurriedly. 

Time and again, sunsets remind me of so many things, in the same way that it teaches me invariable lessons. Watching the transition of daylight to nightfall, simply transports me to a magical retreat; rather similar to a live performance of pros in an amphitheater or a mere celebration of life across borders. In one instant, the skyline would suggest a wrestle of the moon against the sun and planets, giving dramatic feels that somehow attract and repel the demons in my heart like magnets - just plain fantastic!

LIVELIHOOD | One Day At A Time

The community of Buscalan, comprises of approximately a thousand of settlers, is leaned mainly on organic farming. Edible plants and crops of different types are scattered on the land's fertile soil, supplying almost all households. Ifugao coffee and Ifugao rice, two common products that you may find in the village, are generously shared with guests too. Black pigs, the Philippine native type of swine, are typically raised free-range; same goes with chickens. 

MEET | The Young and The Elders

Isang mukha.
Isang ngiti,
Isang libong istorya.

That stare, though..

Trio

Young soul

Warp

Granny can still move up and down the mountains, I'm ashamed.

A cup of coffee shared with the locals would mean engagement, acceptance or a treat.

OBSERVE. IMMERSE. EXPERIENCE.

Tinik

And you get questions like, "masakit ba?"

Precision

Palm reading after the tattoo session :)

The oldest and most famous tribal tattooist in the country, Wang-Od, can be found on top of Tinglayan mountain in Kalinga.  Highly respected among the elders and villagers in Butbut, she gained more popularity as tourists from across the globe endure the long travel just to meet her. Using the basic paraphernalia available in the area, skills shaped by several years of experience and pure passion, a priceless permanent marking is born almost on a daily basis. An ancient technique, rooted from a thousand of years ago, produce unique designs that personified bravery and beauty. Today, it is widely celebrated as a representation of art, individualism or a mere mirror of a chosen culture.