THE ICY CORDILLERAS | Tinglayan, Kalinga and Maligcong, Bontoc

Kalinga and Mountain Province, two of the provinces that comprise the Cordillera Administrative Region ( CAR), stronghold the Philippine's highly invaluable cultures and traditions. Their tribes are strategically located in sierras for agriculture that have been sustaining the ancient households for years. These villages and its settlers, despite many technological advancement, remain interesting as it win out being independent and  at ease in framing their heritage in its true form.

TINGLAYAN, KALINGA|

~ Buscalan Village ~

HOW TO GET HERE?

From Quezon City

1. Take the daily night trip of Victory Liner Bus at Kamias Road along EDSA. There are two daily trips (7PM & 9PM) bound for Tabuk; fare is Php 720 and travel time takes about 10 hours.

2. Alight at St. William's Cathedral and hail a van or jeepney bound for Tinglayan. The earliest trip is at 7AM; fare is Php 100 and travel time takes 2-3 hours.

3. From the "turning point" in Tinglayan, you have the option either to start hiking or hire a vehicle that will bring you closer to the village.

Travel Tip: 

• Getting yourself a vehicle for transit will save you time and reduce your trekking time to a half; fare is usually Php 100. You must cover half the remaining distance to a nearly 30 minute hike.
• A local guide fee of Php 1000/ day; ratio is 1:5.
• Tourism fee of Php 75/ pax.
• Homestay rate is at Php 250/pax/night, icludes unlimited rice and coffee.
• Tattoo rate depends on the size and how intricate it is done. Safest bet would be around Php 1000.
• Tour Guide Contacts: Tatay Moises (0935 919 7784) or Tatay Francis (0915 769 0843)

CHICKS |

OPEN KITCHEN |  An extensive space where local highland produce are almost always prepared.

SILONG | A common part of a traditional nipa hut that aids ventilation.
At noontime, it becomes a recreation ground for these young folks.

THE ART OF TRADITIONAL FILIPINO TATTOO |

~ Whang Od Oggay ~

One woman — who has been living the legends of tribal tattooing - is well celebrated internationally — Whang Od Oggay. An abundance number of guests; locals and abroad have frequented the mountainous village for various arts, visual demonstrations and many types of journalism: reportage, investigative, social media or photojournalism. She has quite amassed a massive oeuvre of ink, symbolizing bravery, beauty and status quo in her tribe. Many enthusiasts endure the long land transit and invest time —  to edify oneself and a thousand of others and to become a part of the last mambabatok's chronicle — Her  Queenship.

A QUEEN'S IMPRINT | In January 2015, the tribe started sealing each bloodied artwork with Whang-Od's signature.

Three dots representing the three generations of Kalinga tattoo artists - all from the same kin.

MALAYA | 

Bleed, love, heed, bleed more and heed.

More than aesthetic, each freehand sketch is a representation of boldness,

 a revival of bravery and freedom of  our Kalinga ancestors from any foreign dominion.

BONTOC, MOUNTAIN PROVICE |

~ Sitio Maligcong ~

HOW TO GET HERE?

From Tinglayan

1. Take the earliest local bus trip bound for Bontoc at 9AM. Jeepney and buses are parked just a few kilometers from the "turning point". Fare is Php 100 and travel time takes about 1.5 hours.

2. From Bontoc proper, catch the jeepneys bound for Maligcong, which are located near their "merkado". Schedules vary but usually vehicles depart every two hours. Fare is Php 20 and travel time takes a little less than an hour.

3.Get off at Maligcong View Point and find your accommodation of choice.

Travel Tip:

• Accommodation at Sitio Maligcong has a standard rate of Php 350/pax/night.
• You may bring your own food or have your host prepare it for you. Please note that resources in the locale are limited, but highland vegetables of different sorts are aplenty. A Php 100/pax is normally charged per meal.
• Fairly good mobile reception for Globe but much better for Smart users.
• Don't forget to pack your nice comfortable thermal set as weather tends to be chilly.
• Attractions: Mt. Fatu for sunset and Mt. Kupapey for sunrise. Php 500 rate for a guided tour with a ratio of 1: 5.

STAY |

 ~ Chen's Sacya-an Home ~

There are a few options for lodging in this humble town. They have the same basic amenities and are all located within the sitio proper. However, there is this one place that stands out from the rest by offering a budget-oriented crib for nomads without compromising comfort. When I say comfort, I honestly mean — a clean room, new laundered towels and mattresses, a working toilet and bath with hot shower, unlimited supply of fresh tea and Ifugao coffee, power outlets, 24/7 electricity, and a patio overlooking the grand Maligcong Terraces. Php 350 is their rate per pax/night and they do arrange personalized tour.

For inquiries, you may contact Nanay Yulie or Tatay Joseph at 09207939550.

CROSS PROCESS |

~ People, Cultures and Vibe ~

OLD SCHOOL RIDE |

You may not realize it, but Bontoc is quite gifted with wondrous terrain which are almost hidden in inner parts of its city. At this very moment, I am still trying to comprehend how in a world's space would rolling mountains, wispy clouds, rich vivid forestry are all gathered in a spur of one single frame. Open milieu provides view of the grassland and cliffs without occlusions. I was in awe and I hope to portray it through below images. All photos were cross-processed for this is my take on the experience — cultures, people and vibe of different genres, just like the art of cross-processing, were all mixed with several unpredictable elements, colors and textures to come up with something really, really amazing and beyond mediocre output.

BLOOM |

PENTONG  PEACE WHEN YOU SEE IT |

IT'S THE LITTLE THINGS |

So I packed without a definite plan - confused but excited - and found myself wandering by a circuitous route to a small town where mountain peaks emerge supreme and stretch vastly that it could almost open the gates of heaven.

Many times, I would find myself busy either saving visuals the vibe or drowning in silence.
It was a rapid series of fun rebellious events, from random thoughts to reflective conversation about identity, relationships, purpose, responsibility and life.

It was an experience filled with inconsequential moments from missing a trip to almost falling off a cliff! But there were days too, filled with realization of love and compassion from elsewhere.

Yet again, there's a first time for everything, and for everything else, there are some things that will always feel like the first time.

I was happy.
I am grateful.

Happy travels!

♥,
Love